Thursday, January 20, 2011

The Dusty Road to Phuentsholing....


We left Tuesday morning with great excitement…. Adventure, discovery and warm weather awaited us in a border town called Phuentsholing…and we couldn’t be happier. This was what we were waiting for since we arrived in Bhutan.

We were warned that the road wouldn’t be easy… in fact we were told it was one of the toughest… but we were not phased as we were excited to continue on in our journey and see what Bhutan had to offer. But this road was tough, and long and at some points its seemed as if the road was haunted…. 

The farther we got the less exciting it became... I felt uneasy, a little scared, and began to wonder why we traveled so far in one day...? Despite the eerie roads we continued and I heard my boss humble.. "I should have listened to the monkeys..." I thought this to be strange, but concluded that since my arrival in Bhutan, most things haven been strange.... nonetheless, I decided to ask her what she was on about.... she told me that she spotted monkeys at the beginning of our journey ( I was still unclear as to the relevance)... she then told me that the monkeys she spotted were red faced monkeys... and that and old superstition says.. "If one sees red faced monkeys at the beginning of a journey, it should be taken as a bad omen...." (of course she didn't tell us this when it happened.... but would explain the hour of prayer and chanting she conducted shortly after the sighting!)...

After many hours of 'nail biting' and 'breath holding' we arrived in the dusty, industrial town of Phuentsholing. Phuentsholing is a ling is a thriving commercial frontier on the northern edge of the Indian Plains. Situated at the foothills of the Himalayas, Phuentsholing serves as the main trading town for the Bhutanese. There you can find traditional Bhutanese and Indian trinkets, textiles and food. Being from the city and preferring the hustle and bustle that India and alike has to offer, I was excited to finally be in Phuentsholing (alive!)...  not to mention the fact that this town is surrounded by jungle like vegetation and the exoticism excited me....

India and Bhutan have some of the world's most porous, peaceful borders and this was evident as we looked at the border crossing gate... a constant flow of traffic going in both directions... we decided take advantage and crossed to spend the day in the Indian border town, Jaigaon. 

Like Tsirang we were there to visit the GNH village and provide training to the local young volunteers. These youth were different from those in Tsirang and were clearly more urban... hairstyles, shoes and makeup set them apart from their rural colleagues. 


I must admit that I was slightly disappointed in Phuentsholing... the excitement that a town like this should offer was missing... although this could have been due to the recent curfew that was imposed in the city.... this is the other side, the unknown side of Bhutan and offers a great segway for my next entry.... "Traveling through Dangerous, Disturbed Lands". 

The border, although porous, poses a threat to Bhutan and the accessibility for Indian and Bangladeshi militants is increased... We arrived in Phuentsholing during a national holiday... on one side this is a time for celebration and patriotism... on the other hand it a prime time for anti- Bhutanese extremists to make their move... despite all this we found an underground karaoke bar that allowed you in as long as you would stay quiet enough that the cops couldn't hear.... we had fun and stayed long enough to realize our voices are just as bad in Bhutan than they are in Canada! 


So little time...

I took some time to read my own blog today to begin reflecting on the past three months... I suddenly realized that some time has passed since my last post... and that I had promised an update on the cross country tour I was lucky enough to participate in. I can't believe how much time has passed, how much has happened, how many people I have met and how many things I have seen.... I can't believe I have just 6 short weeks before I wake up from this dream...
Prayer Wheels

Firstly, you will have noticed (maybe) that I have changed the appearance of my blog. This change is is not due to a spiritual awakening (although I think I feel one coming on!), but rather to pay respect to spirituality that guides this land and its people... to pay respect to the religion that is teaching my a lot about myself, how what kind of person I am and about drives me and the things I do....


Getting us oranges1






Ok, so.... where was I?? Right, the tour... We started in Tsirang (I believe I mentioned this)... Tsirang is a land lined with orange trees as far as the eye can see... this was perfect for us as we arrived in December and Bhutanese oranges would be better known in Canada as 'clementines'!... Everywhere we went, every village we visited we were welcomed with smiles and a basket of oranges... One villager, upon our arrival, climbed high into one of this trees and began to shake
the fruit free for us...

We were also greeted with enthusiastic, engaged youth who were ready to learn and eager to take action in their own communities to facilitate change. We were lucky to spend two days with these youth working through research tools and methods around community development and turning ideas into action in their GNH Village of Tsilami.

This village was a new resettlement. This means that people from all over the country had been moved here by the government  (for one reason or another) and are now to call Tsirang home. This village faced many challenges and I could see the youth's wheels turning as we walked around. Tsilami is a typical resettlement and has typical resettlement issues.... Firstly, there are 19 different dialects and languages in Bhutan... this poses a problem when people who represent those dialects are all moved into one place and expected to mesh into a community. Secondly, this community was resettled in an undesirable land... one with dry, red soil, not suitable for growing oranges or other crops typical in that region. Lastly, the village was fairly inaccessible and only a narrow, bumpy farm road connected them to the outside world....

The youth in Tsirang
Despite all these obstacles, the youth were excited and began developing a plan... we decided to research uses for this red soil, and began thinking of making pots and bricks as a possible income generation program... we also found that Bamboo will grow and started planning a community forest that everyone could access... weaving of baskets, fences, mats, home construction would then be possible....

We will be returning to Tsirang next month to get these projects rolling... I can't wait to absorb the energy of the youth there and eat basket after basket of Clementines!


Quick note....

This is Phub... a staff member that toured with us.
Behind him the house that served my favourite
cup if tea

On our way home from Tsirang we decided to stoop in a place called Phunakha to buy some rice for the rest of out journey.... there we were greeted by Dorji Ohm's uncle and his wife. They invited us into their humble home for tea.... we declined three times, as is customary in Bhutan, before accepting the invitation. We stepped inside a wooden home and took a seat on the floor.... the wife then left... I was surprised to have been just invited into someone's home just to have her leave.... but as I peered out the window I saw her approach one of the cows that was now in its way home.... it was clear to me now.... she was going to milk the cow so that we could have some tea... best cup of tea I have had since my arrival!